Getting a good base/foundation makeup is something that my clients struggle with the most when attempting their own makeup. Getting the foundation part of the makeup right is absolutely vital. It is what it says it is. It’s the foundation that EVERYTHING else sits on so it needs to be good/solid or the whole look can fall apart. I have put together a very basic and straightforward set of instructions to help you create a flawless base that covers beard shadow and highlights key areas of the face ready for your full male to female makeup.
- With a clean dry, closely shaved face, apply a primer such as the Jecca Blac Blur & Matte which will minimise pores and create a matte finish before applying makeup.
- Apply a colour correcting makeup such as Jecca Blac’s Correct & Conceal with an Imitation Latex Sponge (or a foundation brush). Apply the makeup onto the beard shadowed areas in thin, even layers, building up the coverage as you go. It is much easier to add makeup than it is to take it away. If you have a particularly heavy beard shadow you may want to try the 080 Kryolan TV Paintstick which is a slightly heavier product and better for really stubborn, shadowed areas. Do not apply this product directly from the stick as it will be too heavy and too red!
- This time, apply Kryolan TV Paintstick (in your chosen shade) all over the beard area direct from the stick. Take this all the way down the neck too. A heavier coverage on the beard area with a few stripes across the forehead, cheeks and along the centre of the nose, from top to bottom.
- Mentally divide the face into three sections. Top, middle and bottom. ALWAYS start at the bottom (beard zone). Blend this area FIRST with a new Imitation Latex Sponge (or a clean foundation brush). The blending technique in this area is similar to a dab and a push motion to smooth out the appearance without thinning out the coverage. Be sure to take this blending right the way down the neck. Be sure to blend into the corners of the mouth. Next we blend the middle section with a wiping motion. Get into the sides of the nose, just inside the nostrils and every little crease on the face. Finally start to blend the top section. You can afford to have a slightly thinner coverage on the rest of the face hence why we only adopt the dab and push blending method for the beard zone. You must be as thorough as possible. Blend the foundation as close as you can to the lashes underneath the eye, onto the eyelids, against the direction of the growth of the hairs on the eyebrows and back the other way, right up onto the forehead, stopping at the hairline. Every part of your face must be covered. Really take your time with this stage as it is SO important to not leave any areas out through rushing or oversight.
- Sit back and have a good look at how well the beard area is covered. Can you still see even so much as a hint of beard shadow? If so, then we need to go in with a second layer of Kryolan TV Paintstick in one shade darker than the one that you have already used. SO if you used a 4W on the face first, we are now going in with a 5W. This needs to be drawn on direct from the stick on those areas that are proving to be stubborn. Repeat your blending technique of the dab and push for this area.
- Take your Jecca Blac Correct and Conceal and a new Imitation Latex Sponge (or clean concealer brush). Dab on the concealer product using either a brush or a sponge and then blend lightly where there are dark circles including the inside corner of the eye nearest the nose. Apply three spots along the middle of the nose, three spots on the forehead, a spot on the cupid’s bow, a spot on the middle of the chin and three spots along highest point of each cheek bone. Blend with the sponge./brush so the skin is lighter and highlighted in an apparent but not obvious way. This stage (if done correctly) will give the illusion that the face looks slimmer, sculpt the nose and will also make your cheekbones appear higher and more prominent.
- With some Kryolan Translucent Powder and a Powder puff, pat on the powder all over the face and neck. It is a definite pat, not a wipe. Be plentiful with the powder. Make sure that every part of the face is covered and dry from the powder. This is what will set your makeup and ensure it’s longevity. Get into every crease and crevice on the face, the sides of the nostrils and even onto the eyelids.
- Lightly dust away all of the excess powder with a Powder Brush. You should now have a perfect, even flawless base on which to apply the rest of your makeup.
If you need any makeup advice of any kind, please drop me an email and I will be only too happy to help!
Some tips: Depending on what you are wearing you may want to apply more foundation to the base of the neck and onto the chest. This will ensure that the chest is the same skin tone as the face.
Make sure that you have good light to work with. Natural day light, or bright light on the front of the face is ideal. Ring lights are perfect for lighting the face whilst applying makeup.
Keep a packet of makeup wipes close by for cleaning your foundation brush in between stages.
Use a Fixing Spray at the end of the base makeup stage to ensure extra longevity.